937th OSK

So you want to make a Ghillie suit....

When I was a soldier with the 7th ID (L), I learned about the Ragtop helmet cover and how it became the 7th ID's trademark. The "Rag-Top" evolved from camouflaged netting that we used to wear on our helmets. The Rag-Top became a symbol of the 7th ID (L). Even the RANGERS of the time refer to them as "7th ID Rag-Tops". The fact that the Army got rid of them purely for esthetic reasons symbolizes the direction change that the Army's undergone in the last few years. Rag-Tops were a smart idea. In the prone a "Lightfighter" was almost invisible.

Kelly Thomas on the M-60 machine gun. A co, 3/17th Infantry (Date Unknown) Photo: Scott Wicklund

Kevin Lynch, A-5-21 and friend at Ft. Hunter Liggett. 1991 Photo: Kevin Lynch

Specialist Wilcox and Lt. Metz both from 3rd Platoon C co. 3/17.Photo: JAMES SISCO

The Scouts and Snipers in our unit wore full Ghillie Suits. I had the advantage of assisting making some Ragtops as well as Ghillie Suits.

So here goes!

There are two types of Ghillie. There is the Camo-Net version and the Suit version.

I will not go into the net version in depth because it is overly simple in the preperation. But I will give briefe notes about them as I continue through the tutorial.

Before you statr you will need to know what kind you want. This should be dictated by mission.

If you will be covering a lot of ground you will want to keep most of it above the waist. If you will be sitting still or sniping you will want full body. So the base shell you use is important. May it be cover-alls BDU's Cape or vest It is up to you. For this tutorial, I happen to have on hand a oversized Short sleeved hunting shirt.

Step 1. Materials.

Base Shell: May it be cover-alls BDU's Cape or vest It is up to you. For this tutorial, I happen to have on hand a oversized Short sleeved hunting shirt. Make sure ahead of time it will fit over whatever you will need to wear under it!

Fabric: Any natural color (AVOID BLACK) but make sure you have a good mix of colors. Make sure the materials you use is not something that holds water badly, it could double your weight amd would be like going into battle wearing a suit of soaking towels if it rains! What I did was go to a bulk thrift store and bought up anything camo or muted foliage shades. You may use Jute if you like to give your money away.

Net: If you are doing as I am and sewing directly to the shell you will not need the net, I do not like netting because it is more likly to catch on things. The net should be enough to cover your shell.

Sewing maching: If you are using the net, you will not need the sewing machine, you will sew the net by hand to the base shell as if it were to become the clothing (IE: Arms and Legs.) You will need heavy thread and a large needle.

Waterproof cloth: Old raincoat or Ruck Liner will work, This will be to Put on the front of the legs, belly and where most ground contact will be. If you really do not know why, go water your lawn and low-crawl across it.... Now think cold. I will be skiping this step myself because I am making one for patrol, not sniping.

Step 2. Strip!

OK, not as exciting as it sounds, cut the material into strips no mort than two inches wide and between 4 inches to one foot long(If you are using a net 8-10 inches should be the minimum length . Varried sizes are better, they need not be squared at the end and it is better if they are not.

Step 3. Mix.

Even if the material is all the same, you still want to follow this step because it will help avoid symetric patches. The point of camo is to "Break up the outline" To do this I sinply mix it up by hand and then put it into a clothes dryer for 60 sec. Buzzzzz!!!! Ready! (No you do not need to fold them now.)

Step 4. If you are using the Net option, affix the net. and make sure you have full movement. If you are using the Sew-on method Get a marker and make wavy horisontal linse 2-4 inches abart on the areas that will not effect your movement. This means your armpits are hairy enough and camo there is a waste.... Inner legs, chest, and inner forearms. The basic rule is that if in natural movement you touch one part of your body naturaly brushes another do not put camo strips on it. The same can be said for the net. Put them in a box or bag, later when you pull them out, do not look when you grab one. The humak mind wants a pattern, nature does not.

Step 4. Waterproofing. If you are adding it sew it on now (Ask Momma for help if you need to.)

Step 5. Add the strips (The fun part)

A. Net version. Starting at the bottom, affixing to the netting by randomly spaceing the strips. Use a Lanyard Hitch Knot.

Do not leave gaps. Continue until full.

B. The Sew-on Method. Take each strip and fold over the top quarter or so. With the fold down and on the drawn linesew down and go to the next.

Step 6. You ain't done yet! When done sewing or tieing Look it over, any strip that seems too thick, it is too thick, cut it up the middle. Shake out the garment and look it over again.

Step 7. The final step! Wash it and dry it severel times, this will finish the look and will help fray the fabric and break up the outline. Do not groom it.

Step 8. I almost forgot, clean out the lint trap or Momma will kick your ass.